Everest News

By Staff Correspondent

The global mountaineering community is mourning the tragic loss of renowned British-Nepali mountaineer Nirmal “Nimsdai” Purja, MBE, who was confirmed dead after a devastating avalanche struck an international climbing team on Broad Peak (8,051 metres) in Pakistan’s Karakoram range. The accident claimed the lives of ten climbers, ending the remarkable career of one of the greatest high-altitude climbers of the modern era.

Born on 25 July 1983 in Myagdi District, Gandaki Province, Nepal, Purja rose from humble beginnings to become one of the world’s most celebrated mountaineers. Before entering professional climbing, he served for 16 years in the British military—initially with the Brigade of Gurkhas and later with the elite United Kingdom Special Boat Service (SBS), one of Britain’s most prestigious special forces units. His military career earned him a reputation for extraordinary physical endurance, discipline and leadership.

After leaving the military, Purja devoted himself to high-altitude mountaineering and rapidly established himself among the world’s elite climbers.

Record-Breaking Achievements

In 2019, Purja stunned the mountaineering world by completing his historic “Project Possible”, climbing all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres in just six months and six days, shattering the previous record of more than seven years.

He later led the historic first-ever winter ascent of K2 by an all-Nepali team in 2021, another achievement widely regarded as one of the greatest milestones in Himalayan climbing history.

His accomplishments reached a global audience through the Netflix documentary “14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible,” making him an international icon and inspiring countless climbers worldwide.

British Citizenship

Following his distinguished military service, Nirmal Purja obtained British citizenship. He retained strong ties with Nepal while representing himself internationally as a British-Nepali mountaineer. Public British corporate records also identify his nationality as British.

Non-Resident Nepali (NRN) Citizenship

Following Nepal’s constitutional and legal provisions allowing non-resident Nepalis to obtain a special category of citizenship, Purja was granted Non-Resident Nepali (NRN) Citizenship on 9 November 2023.

The NRN citizenship allows eligible former Nepali citizens who have acquired foreign citizenship to enjoy specified economic, social and cultural rights in Nepal, although it does not provide political rights such as voting or contesting elections. Purja was among the prominent Nepalis who received this status after becoming a British citizen.

A Global Ambassador for Nepal

Despite holding British citizenship, Purja consistently identified himself as a proud son of Nepal. He frequently promoted Nepali Sherpas, guides and climbers on the international stage and worked to elevate Nepal’s image as the world’s premier mountaineering nation.

He also established the Nimsdai Foundation, supporting environmental conservation, mountain clean-up campaigns and humanitarian initiatives in the Himalayas.

Broad Peak Tragedy

The fatal avalanche struck an international expedition on Broad Peak in Pakistan’s Gilgit-Baltistan region. Rescue operations involving helicopters, drones and ground teams were hampered by severe weather and dangerous terrain. Authorities later confirmed that all ten climbers had lost their lives, bringing an end to hopes of finding survivors.

Purja had reportedly been pursuing another extraordinary objective—becoming the first person to climb all fourteen 8,000-metre peaks twice without supplemental oxygen—when tragedy struck.

An Enduring Legacy

Nirmal Purja transformed what many believed to be impossible into reality. His military discipline, unwavering determination and relentless pursuit of excellence revolutionized modern Himalayan climbing.

From a remote village in Myagdi to the summits of the world’s highest mountains, his journey remains one of the most extraordinary success stories in mountaineering history.

Though his life ended beneath the snow of Broad Peak, his legacy will continue to inspire future generations of climbers and adventurers across the globe.